My day solo in Paris — grumpy but good!

"I wish I could show you when you are lonely or in darkness
the astonishing light of your own being." 

Today I’m in Paris — Paris! — and I’m grumpy. Not the 'oh, I stubbed my toe, so in 30 minutes I’ll be happy again' grumpy, but the 'I’m glad I’m travelling alone because my Mom always said if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all' grumpy.

But life is too short to be sour, so I’m going to write this post both sides honest — the grumpy and the good. I slept in and didn’t rush to get up, leisurely took my time in making any sudden moves that would require me to leave my best of blankets. But, if I wanted the breakfast I’m paying for, it won’t be served to me in my room, so I needed to make a move and make good things happen. I really didn’t have any plan for today. That’s both good and bad. But not wanting to completely waste a day, I started to think of a few things I might want to do. I talked to the front desk lady and she suggest the Luxembourg Gardens and Saint Chapelle, neither of which I’d visited before and both an easy walk from my hotel. I decided to visit Saint Chapelle. Except, when I got there, I discovered the rotating workers' strike had picked today to close the church. I wasn’t thrilled but the ticket lady suggested I buy a combo ticket and visit the Conciergerie (which is attached to Saint Chapelle) today and the chapel tomorrow. I agreed. It’s not like I had made any other plans.

The tour was pretty cool. It was a self-guided walking tour with a tablet that you scanned at different guide posts along the way. Once the guidepost was scanned, it gave the history of the area you were in, what it might’ve looked like the year it was used, and other interesting information pertaining to the room. For example, when I was in the kitchen, it also gave information on what citizens ate versus what royalty ate.

It was definitely interesting but there were a few things to which I was particularly drawn. One was the room with the walls of names — names of political prisoners and revolutionaries and their fate: acquittal, prison or death. I saw the last name of My Favourite Husband (MFH) on the wall and it would be interesting to know if he had any connection to MFH's family. 

The second thing I found fascinating was the story of Marie Antoinette. I’m familiar with her name but not necessarily her story. The part of her life that was highlighted here was her imprisonment and death. The final thing that very much caught my eye was in the courtyard where female prisoners exercised. It was a piece on Cathrine Theot and she has a quote which reads, in part: “However there must still be revolutions on earth for some time.” Because that’s what’s still happening today.

From the Conciergerie, I had to plot my next move. I was going to do a hop on/hop off bus tour but decided, instead to cruise the Seine and see the sights from the water. I got lost looking for the boat launch, got bad directions from a local (not her fault, she tried) and finally found where I needed to be. I bought a ticket from a lady who was grumpier than me, boarded the boat and got ready to ride. The Seine is flooded, so there was a modified itinerary AND no discount. No window seats and some guy whose fat head is in all my pictures because he wouldn’t sit down. I briefly contemplated pushing him in and, while that might have brought me joy, it clearly wasn’t the proper thing to do. I did get to see the Eiffel Tower from the water, though, and that was sweet. And it was very cool going under some of the beautiful Parisienne bridges.

After the boat ride was over, I thought I could hustle and catch a GuruWalk (free walking tour) of the Latin Quarter. I made it to the meeting spot only two minutes late and we started off. The guide was very attractive and three young girls simpered at him and surrounded him each time we stopped. Then there was the lady with the huge dog that liked to sniff me. Not a great start to my tour. But I did get to see the Saint Severin church and the Canadian Abbey Bookshop before I got separated from my group and couldn’t find them. Honestly, I think it was God going: “Whoa, grump ass, you need to get in a better frame of mind." I got pushed, pulled and dragged at a crosswalk and, when I made it to the other side, my group was gone. I sent the leader a message but since it was a free tour and I wasn’t really digging it, I was OK to wander on my own.

I walked a little way and came across Paul cafe. It’s a chain across several countries and I decided it was fate that I found it and I treated myself to a Perrier and dessert! C’est bon! As I was sitting at my table watching the world go by, I spied a store across the street called Normal. Of course, I wondered exactly what was sold in a store called Normal, so I checked it out. Turns out it’s grooming products — hair, bath, body — and, well, candy. I think it’s a weird combination but it’s really good prices and kind of cool. I made my way back to my hotel for a break and then decided to head over to the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. It’s wonderful! I could’ve spent hours in there but they were closing soon, so I made my purchase and left. I bought a book by a French author who lives in Morocco. One of my tour mates recommended this author and I am eager to read something by her.

Then it was off to find supper. I wasn’t sure where and what I wanted to eat but fate took me down the street to the Olympic and so I walked into the restaurant.

Now what I’m going to say next is difficult. I thought I’d be washed over in memories of my time with MFH. But that didn’t happen. What happened is that, on International Women’s Day, I got snubbed as a single women attempting to eat alone in a restaurant. We might’ve come a long way in some things but, in this place, on this night, a single woman eating alone seemed unacceptable to some. I came back and the man who tried to get me inside last night remembered me. Welcomed me. Opened the door for me. The man inside the restaurant was less excited to see me. I was the only person in the place. He gave me a menu and it took forever for him to come back. Still, I was patient. When he did take my order, I ordered off the fixed menu: tzatziki for a starter, moussaka for a main, and baklava for dessert. He brought bread and tzatziki and my soda. In the meantime, another couple walked in. Then a family of three. Then a family of four. Then another couple. 

My appetizer was a lot of food, so I didn’t even eat half of it. He didn’t ask if I was done or how it was. So I just sat there and watched while everyone else’s meal (except for the last couple, who hadn’t ordered yet) came out of the kitchen. I called him over and he finally came. I told him that I wanted my bill for what I had consumed. I told him that everyone else had their food but me. He said I hadn’t finished my tzatziki. I again requested my bill. He went to the kitchen window and yelled something at the cook and then came over with a plate with chicken skewers and rice. I shook my head and told him that wasn’t even what I ordered. I ordered moussaka.

The restaurant was small and, although I was calm, my voice carried. How could it not? When he brought the bill, I left cash for it and told him it was very clear that he had a problem serving a woman dining alone in his establishment. Did I feel guilt? Actually I did, briefly. I felt guilty standing up for myself and for the poor treatment I received. But then I squared my shoulders and decided to feel good about myself. I did nothing wrong. I’m not ashamed to walk the world on my own and that will mean that sometimes I’ll need to deal with a difficult situation. A situation that’s less than pleasant. And I’m going to have to stand up for myself. I did.

When I walked out of the restaurant, the man outside smiled and asked me how it was. I told him it was a horrible experience and I would never, ever come back again. He asked why and I told him. 

Now that restaurant has two different memories: a beautiful one with MFH and a difficult one where I stood up for myself, stood my ground on how I wanted to be treated. Both are good, in different ways.

I left that encounter hungry (if I would’ve known I wasn’t going to get anything else, I would’ve eaten the whole plate of tzatziki). I didn’t walk far and I had a young lady outside her restaurant calling to come in. I looked at her smile. I looked at how busy her place was. It was jumping! I looked at the menu outside and then I asked her if it was OK that I was alone. She looked puzzled. I said, “Je suis seul," understanding dawned on her face and she said: “It is not a problem at all. Welcome!"

The food was OK but the atmosphere was excellent. 

I got back to my room tonight and reflected on my day. I chuckle looking at the bag on my bed “Normal." 

Because today was a “normal” day and that’s OK. Tomorrow will be spectacular!