Held safely in the Hand of Fatima

Salam from Erfoud!

Today I said goodbye to Fes and we drove a lot to get to the oasis town of Erfoud. This beautiful town borders the Sahara, where I get to ride a camel tomorrow. But that’s tomorrow. Let’s talk about today. We left Fes about 9:30 a.m. and arrived at Erfoud around 6:30 p.m. There are a few reasons it took awhile to get here: we crossed over the Atlas Mountains to get to the edge of the Sahara; the roads are winding and we passed though mountains; Moroccan law states tour bus drivers must stop for a minimum of 15 minutes of rest every two hours. Interesting side note: the distance and speed are recorded on a disc and we were actually pulled over by the police at one point of our trip and our driver had to produce the disc. Another side note: our driver Sameer is awesome. Not only is he a great driver but he’s a decent human being. I’ve had a few conversations with him; in fact, he has even shown me a video of his daughter learning to walk. OK, back to the trip. Once we left Fes, we headed approximately 45 minutes out and were starting our climb into the mountains. Of course, it had snowed. I leave home and the snow followed me.

The first place we stopped had an international university and was a weekend getaway for wealthier Moroccans. It also happened to be where I threw my first snowball at our guide, Saide. I mean, he’s pretty cheeky and totally deserved it, so he got it. And, of course, he threw one back at me.

After our brief stop, we continued through the mountains. Along the way, we saw monkeys and, man, were they cute! Sameer stopped so we could take photos until the police told him to move it. For safety reasons, you are not to stop going up a mountain pass and that makes total sense. A little farther up, though, there was an area where men were renting sleds with skis and men renting horses. I didn’t rent a horse but I had my photo taken with one.

This was also the site of a far better snowball fight. As we travelled, we passed through the mid-Atlas range and the high-Atlas pass. While there was snow at some elevations, the landscape began to change. There was some agriculture — apples, dates, olives — but a lot more rocky and hilly desert. I also began to see my first buildings made specifically out of mud. Some of the buildings looked abandoned but Saide assured us families still lived in them. It’s so different from the way I live it’s truly like stepping into another world. We passed by nomadic tents where the residents use donkeys to carry heavy loads and assist with the manual labour. We passed by villages that hide what’s happening behind their walls because the facade is so unassuming. We passed by simple Muslim cemeteries with piles of stones as markers all facing East, towards Mecca. Eventually, we came to the Ziz Valley where more than 15 varieties of dates are grown. There were date palms as far as I could see. Saide explained how they grew and were harvested. The Arabs introduced the date palms and the camels and I don’t think it’s coincidence our Ziz Valley panoramic stop also included our first camel crossing sign.

From the Ziz Valley, our destination, Erfoud, was only about 35 minutes away. Our hotel was changed but this one is amazing and had one of the coolest rooms I’ve stayed in. And I’m in love with my key. My key is the Hand of Fatima, which symbolizes protection, power and strength, and can ward off negative energies. The Hand of Fatima can be found in souks all over and is made from many different materials. I’m drawn to copper and brass, though. So after checking into my room, I set off for the gift store to see if I could purchase one. I cannot. So I stopped by the front desk to ask if I could purchase one from them. I was told no; however, the gentleman at the front desk happened to have one for a room no longer in use (I ask no questions) and I will have the beautiful Hand of Fatima from this hotel to accompany me on the rest of my trip. I am blessed. I am filled with gratitude for the life I have, the life I’ve worked for, and both my old and new lives. I’m grateful that I have this opportunity and I take none of it for granted. On that note, it’s time for bed. If I’m going to ride a camel tomorrow I’m going to need my beauty sleep. Goodnight and much love from the Girl under the Erfoud moon.